In 2011 while I was here, I wrote a post called Driving in Kampala in which I described what the streets are like here…with a LOT of pictures to prove my point. It’s chaos, plain and simple. There are few rules, there’s too much traffic for the roads and many roads are in disrepair, and there are boda bodes (motorcycle taxis) EVERYWHERE!!
I spent the entire summer of ’11 riding around with Kerrie Snow, who was an excellent driver here, but I didn’t get to drive until just last week. I climbed behind the wheel, prayed for protection, and then took off. And I was SWEATING by the time we reached our destination. It’s constant movement, obstacles, and potholes. The dialogue in my head (and sometimes out loud) went something like this:
Left side. Left side. Dodge the pothole. WATCH OUT for the man walking. Pothole. Oh, sorry, I nailed that one. Left side. Oh, those are windshield wipers, NOT turn signals!! Left side. Oh my gosh! Boda driver on that side. Boda driver swirving in front of me. Left side. NOT wipers, turn signals! Pedestrian. Boda. Boda. Boda. OH, DON’T PULL OUT IN FRONT OF ME! Boda driver, I am INDICATING!! Left side. Wipers again, darn it! Pothole…missed it! Oh, don’t run out into traf…BODA!
At first, I could barely hold a conversation while driving, because I’m so focused on watching everything around me. I have to constantly watch my mirrors to check for boda boda drivers coming alongside me (they hang out in blind spots and will get in your way even if your turn signal is on), pedestrians alongside the road and those who dart into traffic, matatu drivers cutting me off, other cars, and potholes that could swallow us whole. It’s the most challenging driving experience I’ve ever had, and I LOVE it!!
I did have one minor snaffu, because I momentarily forgot where I was and nearly caused an accident. I was driving along looking for a particular supermarket I had never been to. I was watching in front of me and looking at the signs on the store fronts, when suddenly I spotted it. I slammed on my brakes and started to turn into the parking lot (on the left side), but nearly took out a boda boda who was hovering on my left side. Suddenly, I was aware that there were about 6 boda boda drivers around me, one on each side and then several JUST behind the car (they had nearly rear-ended me). One driver pulled up to my window, which was rolled down, and started yelling at me, “You did not indicate! You MUST indicate!” I apologized profusely, and they allowed me to turn into the parking lot before taking off again.
Thankfully no one was injured, but it was a serious reminder that I have to be consistently on guard and aware of my surroundings. Other than that, it is a LOT of fun and definitely makes me feel like I’m in Africa!
Christina was sneaky, and took this picture of me while driving last weekend…
